Archive for August, 2010

Making a DIY Cabinet

A DIY cabinet in your home can be a very rewarding experience, and providing you get your hands on a well drawn detailed pattern with clear instructions  you should have no difficulties building a diy cabinet yourself.

However, the question to ask yourself is whether you wish to build a diy cabinet from scratch,  buy an old cabinet and refurbish it, or whether to a buy a flat pack diy cabinet that you merely have to assemble.  Certainly building a diy cabinet from the beginning and then standing back and admiring the finished product provides one with a wonderful sense of achievment.

Alternatively you may decide to refurbish an existing cabinet in the study, a kitchen, bedroom, laundry, bathroom or garage?

DIY Cabinet Books and Magazines

A great place to start  in building your diy cabinet is to either buy books or subscribe to woodworking magazines.  Over the years I have subscribed to Time Life and the Australian Woodsmith magazine.  therefore if you want to build a diy cabinet yourself then a good place to start is to buy (or subscribe) to magazines such as  ”Woodsmith” and  ”Woodcraft” magazines.  Such magazines usually provide detailed plans and instructions on how to build a diy cabinet.    If this is your first attempt at a diy cabinet, take your time, read the instructions carefully and follow them to the letter.   With building anything the golden rule is “measure twice, cut once”  Make sure you have the right tools before understaking such a task as a constructing a diy cabinet from scratch.

I personally have a large range of woodworking magazines and diy cabinet making books all of which provide  plans, measurements and detailed instructions on how to make a particular item. They ARE relatively straightforward to follow if you take your time. Therefore a subscription to a reputable magazine is a wise investment.

Many of my skills in diy cabinet making have been acquired over the years through learning on the job and building items from plans. There is a wonderful sense of achievement in doing-it-yourself especially when you marvel at your finished product.

It is when there is a lack of concentration and not thinking things through thoroughly that a mistakes happen.  The challenge then is how to overcome the mistake.  When this happens to me (and it does) I will generally leave the task and give considerable thought to the issue.  Below is an image of one of the bedside drawers I made a few years back.  Making these were certainly not without their challenges, but as you can see the finished product looks really cool!!

If you are not confident in building a diy cabinet from scratch, then start with buying a flat pack cabinet which requires assembling only. I have tried several of these, and my personal experience has been one of frustration as they invariably took longer than I anticipated simply because the instructions were either not clear, steps were left out, assumed knowledge, or parts missing!  It very much depends on who translated the flat pack kit instructions into English!

A second alternative is to purchase a sold timber second hand cabinet that needs refurbishing.  Many of these such items generally only need holes filled, sanded back to bare timber, knew knobs/handles and re-staining.    See our article on “How to stain furniture“.

Another thing you may like to do is check your local phone book for companies that provide specialized effects for do it yourself projects involving the use of applying new finishes and getting an instant makeover. A professional finish with a special effect can completely transform a tired old cabinet.

Most refurbishing only needs very basic carpentry skills that the average person is capable of learning (including women), so if you have been blessed with patience and want to give it a go …. Then, I encourage you.   It’s the old saying if you don’t give it a go, then you will never, never  know.

I have also included a selection woodworking magazines one (or more) or which you may like to subscribe to through Amazon.

 The following articles may also prove a useful resource for your to read:

Home Tool Kit
Planning Your Workspace
Tool Safety
Woodworking Joints

 

My Makita compound miter saw does everything I want it to do in my workshop.  I have the smaller LS 1013 model saw and I love it!.  The Makita miter saw is an electric saw that cuts with a high degree of accuracy, adjusts quickly, and easy to use without all the fancy high-tech “stuff” that I wouldn’t use.

To me a quality tool that is built to last is very important and as Makita have a reputation for quality tools, I had no hesitation in buying my Makita compound miter saw.

I have a two year old LS1013 10 inch (255mm) Makita compound miter saw  which has now been replaced by the LS1016.  Many of my comments will, I believe, be relevant also to Makita’s other models on the market the LS-714 (7 ¼” / 190mm)  and LS1216 (12” / 305mm).

I acknowledge that some later models of the Makita compound miter saw will come with a light and/or laser light, which my model does not have.

Makita Compound Miter Saw – specifications

Dual slide compound 10-inch (255mm) mitre
Cuts up to 279mm at zero degrees or 197mm at 45 degree mitre cut
Accurately performs cross cut, bevels, mitres, compound cuts easily
Has a double sliding guide fence  that can be adjusted
Cuts bevels up to 45 degrees (left and right) with positive stops at 22.5, 33.9, 45.  Adjustments made quickly and easily.
Makita miter saw cuts  up to 60 degrees right and 52 degrees left
Soft start motor and electric brake
Work clamps to hold down timber
Extension arms at each end to hold lengths of timber
Dust bag

What I like about the Makita Compound Miter Saw

The Makita compound miter saw head is mounted on a double rail system which allows the head to slide back and forth very smoothly, making it easy to use.  What’s more, there doesn’t feel to be any weight in the saw head as I slide it in and out.

I like the Makita compound miter saw soft start and electric brake, as the saw blade builds momentum almost instantly when I squeeze the trigger.  However it also stops quickly after releasing the power switch.  This is an important safety feature in the event of having to stop the blade in the event of an emergency.

The handle is positioned so that I can take hold of the handle in either hand and pull the handle down onto the surface of the wood and pull or push the saw head in either direction.

The Makita compound miter saw power trigger is positioned so that it is easy to squeeze with either hand.

My Makita compound miter saw has 15 amps of power and to date has not bogged down or struggled cutting thicker timber. For example, I found it slices through 100 mm thick timber with ease and doesn’t become sluggish in any way during the cutting process.

The saw also has a flat, sturdy aluminium base that holds all straight timber exactly where I want it.

The Makita compound miter saw is relatively quiet when compared to so many other electric saws on the market.  Easy on the neighbour’s ears too!

I have found my Makita compound miter saw cuts both mitres and bevels accurately and square!

My Makita compound miter saw cross cuts up to 280 mm wide and if I flip the timber over I can cut up to 550mm wide.  This has proven to be very useful when I have a 400 mm wide cabinet top that needs to be cut.   The Makita miter saw does this perfectly.

The Makita compound miter saw bevels and mitre cuts and can be adjusted quickly, simply by turning the black knob at the front of the saw 90 degrees to quickly lock or unlock the mitre angle lock.

For cutting vertically (up to 120mm high) I will use a backing “fence” to provide additional support.

When using the Makita compound miter saw I find  holding clamps very useful when cutting mitre cuts as the clamp(s) hold the wood firmly enabling me to cut through the wood safely and keeping fingers well out of the way.

The Makita compound miter saw dust bag reduces the amount of saw dust by collecting most of the dust created, although I still seem to end up with plenty of sawdust on the floor.

What do I use my Makita Compound Miter Saw for?

Cutting all cabinet timbers up to 500 mm wide.  Most being 19mm – 38mm (3/4″ – 1 1/2″)  thick with the occasional size up to 100mm x 100mm (4” x 4” thick.
Mitre and bevel cuts for cabinets, picture frames
Cutting the top and base of cabinets up to 500mm wide (once joined)
Most of my use is light home workshop cabinet making and it fulfils all my requirements perfectly.

For me, buying my Makita compound miter saw has certainly been worth the money as I now have a sawthat cuts accurately and adjusts quickly.

Remember the old adage – you get what you pay for, and one of the lessons I have learnt over all these years is to buy quality tools!    In my humble opinion the Makita miter saw is a quality tool.

Optional Extras for the Makita compound miter saw

Whilst I do not have one, if you are sawing long lengths of timber on a regular basis it may well be worth your while purchasing the Makita table extension accessory.

If your saw does not come with holding clamps these are also worth while accessories for holding difficult pieces of wood in place so your fingers are well out of the way.  This then allows you to cut through the wood safely.  Holding clamps are particularly useful for mitre cuts.  

Recommendation:

Irrespective of which Makita miter saw you buy, whether it be the  LS0714 (190mm), LS1016(260mm) or the LS1216 (305mm) you should be very happy with your purchase.

Also remember too that Tool King have an excellent brand name power tools for you to choose from.

 

What is damp mold?

Damp mold is usually caused by continuous dampness in an area such as bathrooms and displays as a fungus that grows on walls and ceilings.   Mold is made up of tiny spores that travel through the air and land in wet areas where they can go about reproducing their spores.  Damp mold usually occurs only in those areas that are constantly damp or moist, or where there is poor ventilation.  The key to preventing damp mold  occurring is to keep the inside of your home dry.

If left untreated damp mold can affect people’s health.    It is important therefore, to nip mold in the bud quickly or it can become a health hazard.

I recently helped my daughter move out of her home and was horrified to see the amount of  damp mold in her home.  As you will read from our family’s experience with mold, if left untreated, it can  cause serious health issues.  Unfortunately at the time of her moving I did not take any photos of the mold growing in her home.

Her home was a fabulous old home built in Victoria (Australia) in 1893.  It had 300mm thick walls, was built from stone, had timber floors and windows, 5 metre high ceilings and corrugated iron roof, and yet it had issues with mold getting in behind its walls and through the roof.  From what I could see the problem stemmed from a replacement corrugated iron roof not being finished properly, leaking over the bathroom, and no damp course material used where the roof joins the walls.

When I opened kitchen and bathroom cupboards there was a definite smell damp mold odor in the cupboards, which indicated there was a problem with moisture getting in to the walls.  Damp mold was particularly bad where an new electric oven had replaced a wood fire stove and there was water dripping onto the top of the oven.   A disaster waiting to happen!!!

There were dark grey blotches  high up on the walls of the bathroom which indicated  mold spores on the walls.

When we moved her latex mattress we were both shocked to find a huge mold stain at least 75cm across on the underside of the mattress.   The presence of damp mold in her mattress suggested that she had a problem with rising damp coming through the floor of her bedroom, even though she had a large carpet mat under the bed.  Continual dampness in a room is sufficient for mold spores to grow over a period of 18 months.  We have no doubt that this is the reason why she developed pneumonia.

If left untreated damp mold may cause respiratory problems, allergies and other serious health problems and in my daughter’s case the doctor told her it was the continual dampness in her home that was the issue for her pnuemonia

Why should you be concerned about damp mold?

• If walls become stained with mold and are left untreated the mold will be difficult to remove.

• If mold forms around timber window and door frames, if left untreated, may eventually cause wood rot and structural damage

• When mold is growing inside the home, the mold spores may cause health issues

What can you do to prevent mold growth?

• The key to preventing damp mold is to maintain a dry home as dry surfaces do not promote mold growth.

• Check your home regularly for roofing, gutters, downpipes and plumbing leaks.  Also check for evidence of mold forming on walls and ceilings.  For example if you see a mold stain on the ceiling it is probable that you have a leaking roof!  Any leaks should be repaired without delay.

• Another area to check is whether rain is getting in behind flashings around windows and doors.  This may be a real issue in homes built in recent years with no eaves.  Any evidence of moisture entering needs to be fixed as soon as possible.

• Check furniture (particularly the underside of mattresses) for mold spores.

• Keep your home well ventilated in summer and warm and dry in winter months, or during those times when you have constant rain or high humidity.  If necessary use appropriate heating to dry out the moisture that may be present in your home.

Suggested Green Solutions to eliminate damp mold:

Vinegar is reported to be effective in killing 82% of mold, so is well worth trying before using more toxic methods.  Here is what I have found effective.

Option 1 – 5% White Vinegar

• Take a small spray bottle and pour undiluted vinegar into the spray bottle
• Spray on the affected area and leave – do not rinse
• There will be a strong vinegar smell initially, but this will dissipate within a couple of hours

Option 2 – Apple Cider Vinegar

• Try 1 part water to 2 parts Apple Cider Vinegar (the light brown one)
• Spray on and leave

Annie Bond from www. www.care2.com recommends the solution below.

Option 3 – Tea Tree Treasure

“Nothing natural works for mold and mildew as well as this spray. I’ve used it successfully on a moldy ceiling from a leaking roof, on a musty bureau, a musty rug and a moldy shower curtain. Tea tree oil is expensive, but a little goes a very long way. Note that the smell of tea tree oil is very strong, but it will dissipate in a few days.

2 teaspoons tea tree oil
2 cups water

Combine in a spray bottle, shake to blend, and spray on problem areas. Do not rinse. Makes about 2 cups and lasts indefinitely.”

Also the The Homeowner’s Guide to Mold will show you how to:

• Inspect for mold throughout a home.
• Remove mold and keep it from coming back… including the best maintenance procedures to prevent mold growth and more ….

Deck Lights  are great for outdoor lighting

Deck lights are an excellent way to provide lighting to a great outdoor living area especially if you enjoy using  your deck for parties, entertaining, and cooking barbeques.  It’s time to put a steak on the barbie mate!

Without deck lights many people do not even use their decks in the evening because of a lack of outside lighting.   The purpose of this article is to provide some thoughts on what to look for when installing deck lights

Solar Deck Lights

Solar deck lights are a cost-effective way for the average handy woman or man to put in themselves as it doesn’t involve running electrical wires around the deck and of course solar deck lights generate their light from the sun’s energy.  Keep in mind that solar deck  lights don’t generate the same amount of electricity per light but, provided your do your research and plan ahead of  time you can achieve a great look and sufficient lighting with solar deck lights.

Other Types of Deck Lights

Other types of deck lights include  lamps that come in different shapes and sizes and can look very pleasing in the right setting.   Some lamps are made to be mounted on the top of a handrail column.

Recessed deck lights is also an option, but this will need to be factored in when the deck is being built.  Recessed deck lighta sit flush with the decking timber and these lights do not break if stood on.  If the deck is enclosed with a verandah roof then the deck lights may also be recessed into ceiling.

If you have steps leading up to your deck then you can also get Solar Deck Lights that are recessed into the steps to shed light on the steps thereby providing improved safety for people walking up and down the steps at night.

Then of course there are deck lights that are mounted on the wall that can add to the overall atmosphere of the deck area.

Whatever type of deck lights you choose, if planned and installed correctly they will provide you and your family and friends with a wonderful outside entertainment area.

Here is a random selection of lights you can use on your deck:

 

 

Bathroom lights can change the mood of your bathroom.  You can give your bathroom a great facelift simply by  changing the bathrooom lights.  Here are some suggestions for you to consider if you are looking to simply brighten up the lighting in your bathroom.