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Ceramic tiles purchased solely on price may be false economy in the long run as quality tiles look attractive and will wear and last a lot longer than cheap ceramic tiles.

Ceramic tiles have been about for centuries and are made from clay and then fired at high temperatures in a kiln to embed the colour and pattern of the tile.  They  come in various dimensions and thicknesses and glazing quality.

When it comes to choosing ceramic tiles, what is important is to decide on the right type of tile for your needs.  When I first started  DIY tiling some 30 years ago, they were basically used in the bathroom, kitchen and laundry.  Today, however, ceramic tiles are used in every area of the home including family rooms, dining areas, balconies, patios, living spaces, passage ways.

One thing to keep in mind is you don’t want your home looking like a hotchpotch of different tiles, so try and find a style of tile that will flow through all the areas you wish to tile. This looks far more appealing than different colors, patterns and sizes throughout.

I am a great believer you get what you pay for. If needed delay your home improvement until you can manage to buy exactly what you want rather than compromise on quality.

If you select your ceramic tiles properly they can add value to your home so view them as a long term investment decision.

Where to view Ceramic Tiles

Visit a number of ceramic tile shops and get a feel for the staff you talk to.  You need a consultant who will show an interest in your needs, can provide helpful advice, make suggestions and give reasons for their recommendations.

Be wary of the showroom salesperson who is only interested in a speedy sale as they do not have your interests at heart.

Take your time and revisit the showroom a number of times until you are comfortable with your selection.

If you don’t want to do the tiling on your own, most showrooms will suggest expert tilers you can contact to do the job for you.

Caring for your Ceramic Tiles

Ceramic tiles are very functional form of flooring  require little maintenance and will provide you with many years of hard wear and tear.  Generally they are quick and easy to clean!

For the first few years while they are new, simply wipe your ceramic tiles down in hot water with a damp mop.    However, from time to time the ceramic tiles and grouting will need thorough cleaning if you wish to retain the glazed look and clean the grout thoroughly.  For example the DuPont StoneTechProfessional Cleaner for Ceramic Tiles is atreak-free all purpose cleaner with a clean, fresh scent. For use with natural stone such as granite, marble, limestone, travertine, porcelain & ceramic tile, and grout.

Other articles you may be interested in reading:
Wood Tiles

Wood tiles laid on a tired looking concrete slab will give your patio, balcony, pool surround or courtyard a bright new facelift.

In recent years there have been a variety of new wood tile products hit the market from “real” wood tiles to laminated wood tiles made of  veneer or plastic materials.  If laid correctly wood tiles look stunning.

Wood tiles interlock with one another and can be laid easily on a concrete slab, existing tiles and other flat surfaces, so they are well worth investigating as a viable option.   With proper preparation the average handy woman (or handy man) should be able to lay the tiles without difficulty.

Advantages of DIY wood tiles

Many wood tiles are made up of solid timber slats.  These slats sit on a rigid plastic mesh base which not only raises the tile off the ground but also allows for drainage and provide aeration under the tiles.    This enables all the tiles to quickly and easily lock together.

Wood tiles used in decking are usually prefinished with protective oils so the tile can be walked on immediately it is laid.  To keep the tiles in excellent condition it is advisable to coat them every 12-18 months with the manufacturer’s recommended protective oil.

Also check that the wood tile you wish to purchase is resistant to dampness, rot and termites in your area.  In Australia our hardwoods are usually more termite resistant than softwoods such as pine.

Home handy woman also recommends you check whether the wood tiles are made from sustainable forestry sources or whether they have been gouged from old growth forests.   We do NOT support the use of timbers harvested from old growth forests.

Some wood tiles use a veneer or laminate timber, so check that you are buying solid timber.  The easiest way to check whether the wood tiles you are considering buying are made from  solid timber is to look at the end grain of the “timber” slats.  If it is “real” timber you will be able to see the end grain of the timber.   The grain should be have some degree of curve to it.

If the ones you are looking at are veneered wood tiles then the “pretend” wood tiles will have a glued veneer edging around each slat.  This is usually because the  edging is glued to an mdf or plastic base  that is clearly visible upon close inspection.  I fell for this one 30 years ago buying a “solid” high quality timber display cabinet only to find years later that the sides, top and bottom were all walnut veneer!  I have been wary and cautious ever since.

Laying Wood Tiles

Surface Preparation

Clean the concrete surface.  No other preparation needed as the wood tiles will sit on top

Measure the area to be covered

Get the tape measure out and measure the length and width of the area to be covered.  Multiply the two numbers together and that will tell you how many square metres (or feet) of interlocking wood tiles you will need.  Add 10% to allow for wastage.

Square off one corner

The most important tip a tiler mate gave me when I was about to lay 42 sq metres of patio tiles some years ago, was to square off the outside patio corner of the area to be tiled.  His advice to me was use the 3-4-5 method – a tip I have used many times since.   You can use this method for squaring off anything and it works like a dream.

Once you have both sides of the corner square continue the lines in both directions by snapping a chalk line.

Using the snapped line created above, the next step is to start at the outside squared corner and lay down one set of wood tiles the full length in each direction, butting one side of the wood tiles against the marked lines and locking the joining side of each tile into the previous tile.  When finished you should have one full row of tiles in each direction.

Check that you lock each connecting wood tile into place completely and you place it to the adjoining tile.  Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the wood tiles into each other and therefore lock together. I have had my rubber mallet for 25 years and it is still going strong. It has been used for all types of external tiling and joining timber.

Follow the above steps and you can be confident the project will be square when completed.  The men in my family taught me well as I have a penchant for making sure everything is square and straight!

If you need to cut around down pipes or posts make a cardboard template first, then lay the cardboard on top of the wood tiles – use a pencil to draw a line around the cardboard template, remove the template and then cut to shape using a jigsaw.  To do a really neat job get a small piece of down pipe from a builder or plumber mate, or purchase a short length of down pipe fitting from a hardware or plumbing store for a few dollars and use this to draw around.

Before using the jigsaw move any screws from under the tile if they are going to be cut in the process.

Another piece of advice my  tiler mate gave me was this.  It doesn’t matter how square things are from the outside edge of the patio (or other area), the walls of the house will invariably be out of square.  Therefore you will end up with a gap varying in width between  one end of the wall and the other end.   The decision you need to make is whether you wish to butt the tiles up against the wall or leave a gap.  If you can live with a gap this is the easiest solution, otherwise you will need to make cardboard templates to cut tile blocks to size before laying.

The other factor to keep in mind is whether you live in a termite area.  Leaving a gap will allow you see if there is any termite activity when checking at regular intervals.  It is advisable have to have termite prevention measures in place before laying wood tiles.

As for me I love undertaking this type of project because there is a wonderful sense of achievement at the end.  I am sure, if you decide to give it a go yourself, you too will enjoy a wonderful sense of satisfaction at the end.

If you check out the Eucalyptus Six-Slat Wood Tiles it will give you an indication of the tile itself plus the interlocks at each end.

The following video will explain very nicely how to lay interlocking wood tiles.

How to install wood tiles to a deck

Here are some wood tiles at Amazon that may be of interest including hardwood flooring

You may also be interested in reading our article on Ceramic Tiles

Vergola – Do the benefits justify the cost?

Some 10 years ago I installed the Vergola opening roof system, which in principle is an excellent idea.  I had Vergola install two banks of Vergola blades over my patio covering an area 8.0m x 5.6m.  This review is my experience of using the Vergola over the past 10 years.

The reason I installed the Vergola opening roof originally was because I  live in a hot climate and liked the idea of being able to control the air flow, temperature and light under the opening roof  on those hot, humid  summer days, and to also let more light through the lounge and bedroom windows.    It also came with a rain sensor that when set, would automatically shut the blades if it started to rain and then re-open when the rain stopped and the sensor dried.  In a light shower of rain one does keep dry underneath the roof.

On my Vergola system each bank of blades has 50mm high gutters (outside edge) which feed into the normal downpipes of the house.  This has proven to be a disadvantage for me personally, as in Queensland  (where I live) we get  heavy downpours of rain  over a short period of time, and the Vergola gutters simply cannot cope with the sheer volume of water, and often form a waterfall over the gutter edges.   Whether the Vergola manufacturer  has since rectified this I do not know, but it is one aspect a potential buyer needs to consider.  It is certainly a product defect that needs to be addressed by Vergola (in my humble opinion).

I live in a bush setting so the blades have to be cleaned on a regular basis to keep them looking clean.   Cleaning the blades therefore, is a long tedious job because every blade has to be cleaned individually with the water blaster regularly to keep them looking clean.  I have 23 blades in each bank x two banks = 46 blades to be cleaned topside and underside.  Whilst I could ignore cleaning the top side exposed to the weather, on those occasions when I do open the roof I can see a dirty roof.   If you live in an area where you are not surrounded by trees or industrial pollution this may not be an issue for you.

The reality for me is that over the years I have found I have not used the features of the system at all, and the blades remain closed 90% of the time.  That of course is not the fault of the manufacturer.

Vergola – do your own research

The Vergola opening roof is a wonderful idea in principle.  However, as a buyer you need to look at all aspects involved with what is an expensive purchase – rainfall, cleaning and how often (in reality) you will use the opening roof option.    Mine cost me around $13,000  10 years ago so it was not a cheap install.   The reality for me is that I found myself not taking full advantage of the features of the system.   

Would I recommend installing a Vergola opening roof system to my family or friends.   Based on my personal experience with rain overflow and cleaning of the blades,  I have to answer No.  For me personally, next time round I would go with a pitched patio roof being built into the existing roof line.  But, please do your homework thoroughly and don’t get caught up in the sales hype.  Take your time in making your decision whether or not to purchase a Vergola.

Images sourced from:
www.vergola.com.au

Building the Glass Doors

A DIY Cabinet building project is likely to provide you with a number of interesting challenges if you are a novice (like me) and not a professionally trained furniture maker.  Over the years I have built a number of diy cabinet pieces.  In this article I will outline the process I went through to build the glass doors for my diy cabinet and some of the challenges I faced in making it.   

Steps to Making the DIY Cabinet Glass Doors

Cut the side lengths a 100mm over size.  Width of timber 55mm x 20mm thick.

I cut a 22mm wide rebate for the diy cabinet glass panels, and this is where I made my mistake!  I thought I was being very clever making the rebate wide because the recycled glass was 4mm thick and was heavy.  I felt if I had made the rebate too narrow the glass could break away from the rebate.

 

However, when I went to mount the cabinet hinges I discovered I needed enough room to fit a 35mm rebated cup hole for the hinges.  Because I had made the glass rebate so wide on my cabinet I had only allowed  33mm for the hinge.

So it was back to the drawing board as to how to hang two heavy glass doors to a cabinet frame.  It was my Uncle John from across the ditch who provided the answer – use piano hinges.  Even though they use short screws, because the screws are so close together the hinge will be strong enough to hold the doors in place.  Wallah!!  Not the ideal solution, but it appears to have worked.

In building the glass doors for my diy cabinet it really reminded me of the need to check and recheck everything two – three times before cutting to ensure that everything has been factored in.  In building another diy cabinet I certainly would not make the same mistake twice.  However, it is only from “doing it yourself” that we learn.

Once the glass doors were mounted to the cabinet frame there is a wider gap between the two doors than I would have liked.  However, that has come about as a consequence of the mistake I made in cutting the rebate for the glass, but it is a gap I can live with.

The approach to take in building any type of diy furniture,  accept that you may face your own challenges and potentially make mistakes,  no matter how careful you are.  However the lesson is to learn from the mistakes and not repeat them!!

In the the next diy cabinet article I will talk about the process I went through to make the cabinet frame on which the glass doors are hung.

One Woodsmith woodworking magazine I have subscribed to for years is a great magazine for the DIY Cabinet Making magazine.  In fact the plans for my bedside drawers (see image below) came from one of the Woodsmith magazines.

You may also be interested in purchasing one or more of these diy cabinet furniture plans.

You may be interested in reading these articles too:

DIY Cabinet  |  Cabinet Frame
Build a DIY Cabinet
Woodworking Joints

Building the display cabinet frame

The display cabinet frame shown here has been built using Queensland Maple which is a relatively soft timber to work with.  What I absolutely love with it is the wonderful hue of grains that run through the timber’s veins.  

The display cabinet shown here is one that I modeled it on a  walnut display cabinet I had bought 30 years earlier.    At the time I bought that original display cabinet I was told it was solid timber.  However, after the first move I found it was nothing but veneer crap!  The only solid bit of timber in that original display cabinet was the door  and drawer trims.

So my DIY display cabinet making days started.  I started making simpler items first like coffee tables and hall stands, then came across a really neat plan in the Australian Woodsmith for bedside drawers.  I decided to make a pair of beside drawers and this project was my first complex project.  

After completing beside drawers I drew up the plans for a display cabinet and recycled the glass door inlay and glass shelving. 

 

Steps to building the Display Cabinet Frame

The display cabinet is built in two parts. The top section with the two glass doors has four glass shelves inside and a mirror on the base.

The  display cabinet top measures  1060mm high x 350mm deep x 850mm wide

When I have to cut a number of pieces to the same size I use stops on the saw bench to prevent timber moving during the cutting phase and usually cut two or more pieces at once.  In this instance I cut both the bottom and top  back and front rails  at the same time to ensure a perfect fit.

The four lengths used to construct the display cabinet side panels were also cut in one run to ensure they were the exact same length.  For each side panel I joined two lengths of timber 175mm wide x 19mm thick.   The overall width of the each side panel is 350mm.

When joining the side panels  of the display cabinet I ensured that the end grain of each length was running in opposite directions.  i.e. one end of the timber grain looked like a convex shape and the other concave grain.  I was taught that when joining two lengths of timber at the sides ensure that the end grain of each piece run opposite to each other to avoid warping.

The display cabinet four sides were then laid in one line and then with my large steel square made pencil lines across the width of all four pieces of timber to ensure a perfect fit when cutting mortises with my Festool Domino Joiner which would take the Festool Domino beech tenons. The mortises were spaced approximately 300 mm apart and at 50mm from the end of each length.  This baby wasn’t going anywhere!

Once the sides were joined I then flipped the timber over and prepared for the display cabinet glass shelving holes.  Again I laid out the two (now joined) sides and, using a large steel square laid across the two side panels, marked and drilled the holes needed at the  required heights to hold the glass shelves.  The display cabinet holds four shelves at variable spacing.  The reason for this strategy was to ensure glass shelving was level in the finished product!

The next step was to join the top, back  and bottom rails to the two side panels of the display cabinet.   

To ensure that the display cabinet frame was perfectly square was pretty straight forward, as I used two sets of  ratchet straps and then checked to to ensure the frame was square while gluing and screwing. 

I found using the Kreg  pocket hole system made framing the display cabinet a breeze.  I had only recently bought it, so now was wishing I had had it years ago!!

I cut the top of the display cabinet pieces all in one piece to the required length to ensure the length was perfectand then joined them as described with the display cabinet side panels. 

Things now started to get a bit tricky as I wanted to use the Festool Domino to line up the tenon biscuits to join the top of the display cabinet to the side panels and tops rails so as to have a seamless join.   I needed to match perfectly the top and side panel mortises to ensure the display cabinet remained square.  I cut mortises on the end grain of the two side panels and  then on the underside of the top to match up with the mortises on the side rails!  I did do a number of practice runs on scrap timber before attempting this task.  Fortunately the practice paid off, as it all joined perfectly.

The next challenge was how to put pressure on the top of the display cabinet during the gluing and screwing phase to ensure a perfect join.  Again my trusty ratchet straps proved very useful in doing this.   I had to constantly double check to ensure everything remained square during this phase.

 Display Cabinet Base

The base of the display cabinet did not pose any major challenges.  Firstly I measured roughly the width required for the base allowing 10mm for trimming. I then cut the two pieces as one and then joined them into one piece.   Now it was time to make adjustments to the final cut to ensure a perfect fit.

To do this  I used an adjustable ruler I had made.  It comprises two lengths of timber 450mm long x 50mm wide by 6mm thick.  I then cut a hole 250mm along one piece and 100mm long hole in the second piece.    The jigsaw did this cut very well.  The purpose of the cut out hole strip was to allow for a bolt and wing nut to fit so I could slide one end of the ruler to get a perfect fit.    For longer pieces I tend to use two bolts and wing nuts to ensure the ruler does not move.    Each end of the rule is bevelled.  This allows me to use this adjustable ruler to make sure the base piece I cut is a perfect fit with the display cabinet frame.

I fixed the to the bottom and back rails to the display cabinet using the Kreg pocket hole jig and wood glue.

I used a sheet of 6mm ply for the back of the display cabinet frame.  The backing ply was glued and screwed for added strength.

Overall I am happy with the final result of my display cabinet and it is with a sense of pride when my friends comment on what a fabulous job I have done!

There is enormous satisfaction in seeing the end result of your handy work, so I encourage you to give it a go.  Remember this saying.  ”If you don’t give it a go… you will never never know”.  Have a look at the Fine Wooodworking magazine

You may like to also check out these articles:

DIY Cabinet  |  Glass Doors

DIY Cabinet

Woodworking Joints

Install your own home irrigation system

I installed my own home irrigation system around my one acre property and such a task can be undertaken by the average handy person. The same principles outlined below will apply even if you are looking to install sprinklers to water your lawn.  The purpose of this article is to provide you with some ideas on how to plan and install your own home irrigation.

Plan your home irrigation system

Draw a sketch of the property boundary showing location of your house and gardens. This will form the basis for installing your home irrigation watering system

Next draw a line where the main water pipes and lines for your home irrigation system are to run around the various gardens. In the example below the blue outside line represents the main 1 1/2 inch poly pipe.  The reason I was advised to install this size pipe was to ensure my home irrigation had adequate pressure around the whole property.  The purple pipe is 1″ low density poly pipe with drippers running from it to each plant.

Note: If you live in suburbia you will need to know where your storm water, sewerage and water pipes and underground power supply are laid before digging trenches for your home irrigation poly pipe.

Research thoroughly the type of home irrigation you wish to install and price it as if you were doing DIY home irrigation.  When talking to irrigation suppliers find out how many years experience they have.  Please – only deal with people who have years of experience working with agricultural and home irrigation systems and who are people you can trust!   Get professional advice from at least three different “reputable” home irrigation suppliers and most of all look for consistency of answers.

When I installed my own home irrigation 11 years ago I was advised by an experienced irrigation man (with whom I had previous dealings and knew well).  Whilst he was an Aussie larrikin, I knew I could rely on his advice.   The first thing he advised me to do was to install the main home irrigation pipe in 1 1/2″ poly pipe as a complete ring loop. The reason for this is to maintain even pressure throughout the water pipe, and when the tap is turned on all sprinkler heads will start working very quickly.

 Note: If you install home irrigation that only has a one-way main pipe installed then the end of the pipe will fill with water first and the top end last. Therefore, gardens at the bottom of the pipe get more water than the top part.

Research and price the following home irrigation items:

What size pipe to use around the perimeter – 1 ½ inch poly pipe provides excellent pressure if you are on a large property. If your home irrigation poly pipe is too small the pressure of your home irrigation watering system will be pathetic, particularly if you have a lot of gardens to water.

Measure the total length of perimeter of your property so you can ascertain the total length of 1 1/2″ poly pipe you will need to provide your ring loop for your home irrigation system.

For example

a. Side 1 – 70 metres

b. Side 2 – 70 metre

c. Side 3 – 35 metres

d. Side 4 – 35 metres

Therefore total length of poly pipe required will be 210 metres.

Your home irrigation system will also need straight joiners and curved joiners when joining poly pipe, as well as joiners that have reducers in them when connecting to different sections of your garden.  These are very easy to use!

You will use 1” low density poly pipe to run from the main 1 ½ inch irrigation pipe to each of the garden beds.  The joiner connectors between the  1/1/2″ and 1″ poly pipe will need to be a reducer fitting i.e. one end takes the 1 1/1″ poly pipe the other end the 1″ poly pipe.

 

Now we are getting to the fun part with installing your home irrigation.  From the 1″ low density poly pipe you will connect your drip tubing and drippers.  You will need small joiners that join the dripline to the 1″ low density poly pipe.  Simply use a pliers to push the dripline connector into the low density poly pipe and the other end into sprinkler head.  Cut the drip tubing to the required length for each plant.  There are a wide range of drippers and low volume sprinkler heads available on the market.

Look at how many garden areas your home irrigation system will need to water. You will need a solenoid valve at each garden area.

The solenoid turns the home irrigation water on and off according to the time you set at the irrigation controller. You will also need a solenoid box cover to protect the solenoid valve from being damaged.

The number of garden areas you wish to water will determine the type of controller you will need. Most home irrigation systems for gardens can do anything from 4 – 48 different areas and there are many different brands on the market.

You will also need to purchase the electrical cable to run from each of the solenoids back to the home irrigation controller. This cabling is laid into the ground at the same time as the poly pipe.  You will need a licensed electrician to connect to the mains power.  However, laying the cable and connecting to the solenoids you can do yourself.  The supplier or your equipment should explain how to connect the wires to the solenoids.

Are you going to use sprinkler heads or drippers at each plant. Drippers (shown above) use a lot less water than sprinklers.  However, if you have a lot of plants in a small area using a low volume sprinkler head may be more efficient.  For example because I have large areas of young bushes I tend to use sprinklers that spray a 1m diameter.  The disadvantage with sprinklers is that they encourage more weeds!

Drippers also help control weeds as you are only watering the plant not the surrounding area.

What size home irrigation pump and pressure tank do you need? This will depend upon a number of factors including total volume of water you will be pushing through the main water poly pipe, areas to be watered and water pressure from the bore itself.

You will need good professional advice in this area, and this is where you can get your fingers burnt if you don’t exercise caution.  Once again, I recommend you speak to a number of “experienced” home irrigation people and get their opinion.  Look for consistency across their answers and don’t be afraid to ask lots of questions.  Do your own research into the type of home irrigation system you wish to install and check that the advice you are getting is correct.  You will be spending a considerable amount of money installing a home irrigation system  for your garden,  so take your time and get it right.

Check out this book on Home irrigation Sprinkler and Drip Systems

 Hammer Components

The components to a hammer include the handle, a steel head made up of flat steel round end that drives in the nail, and a “V” (or split claw as it is also known) at the other end is used for pulling out  nails.  There are some simple tricks to using a hammer safely.

As with other tools, please check our tool safety tips before using any tool, including a hammer.  At the very least wear eye protection, as nails have been known to flick up and hit people.

How to use a  Hammer

In using a hammer keep in mind that it is the head of the hammer that is driving in the nail.  Here is what you do to drive in a nail.

1. If you are right-handed, take hold of the hammer handle towards the back of the handle rather than towards the head.  Find a position that feels comfortable in your hand and the thumb should be facing up the hammer.
2. Take a nail and hold it between your index finger and thumb in the position on the timber where you wish to drive the nail in.  Give the nail several taps of the hammer to make the nail stand upright in the timber.
3. The key to successfully driving in a nail is to bring the hammer head down vertically over the nail head.  It is the weight of the hammer head that drives the nail into the timber.  It is also important to keep your wrist straight and the  face of the hammer square to the nail head.
4. Keep your eyes focused on the head of the nail.  Remember this:  where you are looking is the point that the hammer head will hit.  With a little practice you can have a good striking technique when you use a  hammer.   If bring the hammer head directly vertically over the head of the nail then the nail will go in to the timber straight.  However, if you hit the nail head at an angle the nail will go in at an angle.

Using a Hammer  Claw to Remove a nail

If you bend a nail while driving it in to timber you can remove it by taking the claw (“v”) of the hammer head.   Slide the claw under the nail as far as it will go, brace the head on the timber,  and then pull back on the end of the handle.   If the nail is protruding a long way out you may need to place a scrap of timber under the head of the hammer to brace against.

Usually this can be done with minimal damage, but placing a scrap piece of cardboard or wood under the hammer head will allow you to pull the nail out without damaging the original timber.

IF you are in the market to buy a new Claw Hammer
However, if you hit the nail head at an angle the nail will go in at an angle. you may like to select from one of the hammers on offer below.

Other posts you may be interested in.

If you have a stuck window somewhere in the house  and are not sure how to fix the stuck window, you will find some helpful suggestions below.

Window problems occur from time to time, and a window that is sticking is one of them. It is certainly more common with timber windows in particular. Here are some suggestions for clearing a timber stuck window.  The image above says it very nicely.

 How to fix a stuck window

• The first step is to examine the window and determine where it is sticking.  Make note whether the stuck window only sticks during wet weather and opens freely when the dry weather returns.  It is a normal process for timber to expand during wet weather and then contract once dry weather returns, thus allowing the window to open freely

• Here is the easy option to clearing a stuck window and is worth trying first. Open the window as far as it will go. Take a toothbrush or similar hard bristle brush and clean any dirt and grime in the window channels. Then spray the window channel with a silicone lubricant spray.  Check to see if the window now opens and closes freely.

• If a window has not been opened after being freshly painted this too can cause a stuck window.  In this situation simply take a scraper or knife and run it between the edge of the window and the frame. Hopefully that will be enough to allow the window to open easily.

• However, one of the most common reasons for a stuck window is a build up of paint over many years which causes a window to become stuck.  Again, open the window as far as possible and brush on a paint stripper along the window channels. (NOTE: wear plastic gloves and eye protection for this).   After the required waiting time for the paint stripper to work, scrape off the excess paint and dispose of correctly.  With a sanding block sand the channels to remove any loose paint.   Check to see if the stuck window now opens and closes freely.  Keep in mind that you will now need to allow enough clearance for reapplying an undercoat and top coat of paint to the sanded surface.

You may want to even check out this book on repairs to a Stuck Window – Guide to the Repair and Restoration of Wood Windows

If the above  suggestions to clearing a stuck window don’t work then it’s time to remove the stuck window from its frame and either sand back the old paint where the edges of the sash and frame rebate meet  the edges of the window.   For this purpose you can use either a sanding paper, hand planer, or if you have the confidence use an electric sander or electric planer. The electric sander will be more gentle in shaving off the required amount fromt he stuck window  than an electric planer. Take care not to remove too much!

Resources on how to fix a stuck window

The first video shows you how to clear a stuck window using  first option above.

The second video will show you how to remove and sand back a stuck window.

As you can see fixing a stuck window is not a difficult home repair job at all. Most of these types of home repair jobs tasks can be performed by the average home handy woman or  handy man before calling in an expert.

Other repair projects you may like to check out:

Fixing Stuck Door
Installing a door

A stuck door is usually remedid fairly quickly.  A stuck door may be sticking because of faulty hinges, or the door has become swollen from changes in humidity.   The following steps should provide you with some ideas on how to fix a stuck door.

Steps to take to remedy a stuck door

Check to see whether the hinges to the stuck door are sticking.  This includes checking the top and bottom of the door and the door sides and, with a pencil, mark on the door where it is sticking.

Hinges:

• If the top of the door is rubbing against the door jamb, then check the hinges as the pins can become loose which may cause the door to drop. Place a wedge or book under the door to hold it steady before making any adjustments to the hinges.   If the pins are loose, gently tap them back into place.  Stuck door is now unstuck!

• If the hinge screws are loose, re-tighten them with a hand screwdriver and see if that helps the stuck door to close freely.

• Try oiling the hinges first to see if that helps the stuck door open and close more smoothly.

• If the above suggestions don’t work to clear a stuck door, the next step is to try fitting new hinges as this may also fix the problem.

If none of these options work then it’s time to take to remove the stuck door and take to it with a hand plane.

Shaving the Stuck Door

• Check the door for swelling by running your hands along the sides and edges.

• If you can still close the stuck door,  check the gap between the door frame and the door itself.  To do this use a piece of cardboard and slide it long the sides and top of the door marking  with a  pencil those sections where the door sticks.

• Once you have marked the affected sections of the door,  remove the door and stand the door on its side.  Use a hand planer (or electric if you have one) gently plane that section of the door that is sticking.   Make sure you achieve a smooth plane between the old and new.  The trick here is to make sure when planing that the tool is applied to the surface flat and you don’t allow the plane to skew off to one side.

• Re-hang the door and check for clearance.  If the stuck door closes freely then you are done.  If not, you may need to shave a little more off the door to fix the stuck door.

You may also find the following book on how to repair a Stuck Door – Windows & Door Repairs helpful

The following video will also provide you with a good demonstration on how to fix a stuck door and also provide a some additonal suggestions for clearing a sticking door..

 

Here are some tools that you can use for fixing a stuck door

Check out the following posts as well:
Installing a Door
Repair Plaster Walls